Across San Diego County over the last 12 months there’s been a topsy-turvy whirl of restaurant openings and closings, resuscitations, makeovers and cash infusions. Old standbys, particularly higher-end special-occasion places, tried every which way to stay afloat. So did a dozen newer places that were well received and favorably reviewed. Sometimes the effort worked and sometimes it did not.
Regardless of the current perils, San Diego is awash, agog and aglimmer with restaurants. New places continue to open with the high-spirited optimism of a Disney film. Established places reinvent and reinvigorate themselves. A grand dame like El Bizcocho is doing gourmet vegan dinners that sell out, and an upstart like Eclipse is doing wildly creative dining adventures where there’s chocolate in every course, and it, too, sells out. Laurel did a full-body makeover and transformed itself into Cucina Urbana, instantly morphing from aging siren to Lady Gaga. And who isn’t opening a wine bar? Or a burger place? Or a new pizzeria? Or another sushi shop? Whether the location is central or peripheral — that is, East Village or Oceanside — the restaurants keep coming.
When it comes to food, San Diegans are fashion conscious but not fickle. We’re a town that continues to love steak and potatoes, and we’re about to embrace a bacon and fried-chicken trend. We’re in the waning days of Chinese chicken salads and crème brûlées, but they’re sure to be with us a while longer. We’ve got an abundance of celebrity chefs (includes a growing roster of locals who pop up on the Food Network), and we’re more than willing to venerate them.
With all this abundance — notwithstanding economic uncertainties — the local food scene has never been more diverse and downright fabulous. So herewith are our 2010 Silver Forks, representing the best bites of the last year.
Blind Lady ALE HOUSE Cuisine: Beer and pub food
What’s to Know: While a little rough around the edges (literally), the beer selection is dazzling and the pizza outstanding. Where it’s at: 3416 Adams Ave.
Normal Heights. 619/255-2491
Buon Appetito Cuisine: Italian
What’s to Know: It’s the reigning champ for traditional Italian food rendered with a modern sensibility and intelligence. Where it’s at: 1609 India St.
Little Italy. 619/238-9880
Cowboy Star Cuisine: Continental
What’s to Know: Though mostly meat and potatoes (with a nod to chicken and fish), the char-grilled steaks are what to order. Where it’s at: 640 10th Ave.
East Village. 619/450-5880.
Cucina Urbana Cuisine: California Italian
What’s to Know: This moment’s definition of hip, and modestly priced to boot! Polenta specials are a best bet. Where it’s at: 505 Laurel St.
Bankers Hill. 619/239-2222.
El Camino Super Cocina Cuisine: Theoretically Mexican
What’s to Know: More New than Old Mexican, the setting is pop opera and the sopes de tinga and mesquite quesadilla are superb. Where it’s at: 3023 Juniper St.
South Park. 619/450-6878
El ViTRAL Cuisine: Modern Mexican
What’s to Know: High design is all over the room and on your plate. The traditional foods are fine, but what’s imaginative is what’s dynamite. Where it’s at: 815 J St.
East Village. 619/236-9420
Extraordinary Desserts Cuisine: Desserts and light bites
What’s to Know: First Karen Krasne turned dessert exquisite. Now she’s added breakfast, snacks and panini. Where it’s at: 1430 Union St.
Little Italy. 619/294-7001
Grant Grill Cuisine: Continental
What’s to Know: A gracious dining experience where spectacle is downplayed and sophisticated food, service and thought soar. Where it’s at: 326 Broadway
downtown. 619/744-2077
Hane Sushi Cuisine: Sushi
What’s to Know: Modern sushi in a slick and suitably modern setting. Where it’s at: 2760 Fifth Ave.
Bankers Hill. 619/260-1411
JSix Cuisine: California coastal cuisine
What’s to Know: Chef Christian Graves has a sensibility for fish that few can match. His ingenuity ranks him among our best chefs. Where it’s at: 616 J St.
Gaslamp Quarter. 619/531-8744
Kensington Grill Cuisine: New American cuisine
What’s to Know: There are a thousand burgers in this town, and Ken Grill serves one of the messiest and tastiest. Where it’s at: 4055 Adams Ave.
Kensington. 619/281-4014
Neighborhood Cuisine: Beer and burgers
What’s to Know: The simplicity and plain goodness of the burger and fries are a siren call. There’s plenty of good beer, too. Where it’s at: 777 G St.
downtown. 619/446-0002
Nine-Ten Cuisine: California cuisine
What’s to Know: Every entrée is a triumph of wit, skill and enthusiasm. Chef Jason Knibb’s constant invention keeps Nine-Ten breathtaking. Where it’s at: 910 Prospect St.
La Jolla. 858/964-5400
Pizzeria Bruno Napoletano Cuisine: Pizza
What’s to Know: There’s a proliferation of new pizza places, and Bruno’s Neapolitan ranks highest for taste and quality. Where it’s at: 4207 Park Blvd.
North Park. 619/260-1311
Red Door Cuisine: Contemporary American
comfort food
What’s to Know: Daytime it’s a ladies-who-lunch place; nighttime, it serves creative and passionate food, skillfully rendered. Where it’s at: 741 W. Washington St. Mission Hills. 619/ 295-6000
Saigon Cuisine: Vietnamese
What’s to Know: The pho is universal comfort food, the fresh rolls are superb and the fresh crab with black bean is a feast for all senses. Where it’s at: 4455 El Cajon Blvd. City Heights. 619/284-4215
Sushi Ota Cuisine: Sushi
What’s to Know: Impeccably fresh and impeccably classic sushi. Go early and sit at the bar. Where it’s at: 4529 Mission Bay Dr. Mission Bay. 858/270-5670
Urban Solace Cuisine: California comfort food
What’s to Know: A contemporary classic from the moment it opened, Urban Solace serves luscious familiar food packed with originality. Where it’s at: 3823 30th St.
North Park. 619/295-6464
Vela Cuisine: Mediterranean
What’s to Know: The surprise of the year. This hotel dining room is designed for conventioneers but serves refined and delicious food Where it’s at: 1 Park Blvd.
downtown. 619/564-3333
Whisknladle Cuisine: European bistro food
What’s to Know: Its obsession with handcrafted and homemade food delights with every bite. Still, dining could be improved by tuning down the attitude. Where it’s at: 1044 Wall St.
La Jolla. 858/551-7575
